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If you have a clutch problem, first check the amount of travel at the slave cylinder pushrod. It should be 11mm; any less than 10mm indicates a problem in the hydraulics/pedal etc.
If it is the full 11mm and the clutch has a problem, it is internal
Clutch Drag/not disengaging (another 10 min miracle cure!)
If your clutch is not fully disengaging, before you rush in & spend lots of money & time renewing the clutch and/or hydraulics check the slack in the clevis pin which joins the pedal to the master cyl pushrod. If there is movement there, (sometimes there is lots!) it will reduce the amount of movement generated at the clutch fork in the
bell-housing.
To check if this is your problem, measure the movement at the slave cylinder pushrod as the pedal is depressed (see above). If less than 10mm, and you have free play at the clevis at the top of the pedal, this will highly likely be the cause of the drag.
A new pin & pushrod should fix it, and very cheaply and quickly at that - you don’t even need to remove (let alone strip) the master cylinder if you have the new pushrod at the ready and keep the piston from popping out while you do the switch. (An assistant can be useful to help hold the piston with a long skinny screwdriver) In severe cases, the hole in the top of the pedal will be significantly worn too, in which case it will be necessary to remove the pedal, weld up the hole and re-drill it.
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